Le Grand Aioli

Le Grand Aioli has roots that stretch all the way back to ancient Rome, when garlic-and-oil sauces were already at the table. Over the centuries, Provence in southern France made the dish its own, turning it into a summertime ritual for feast days. What began as a simple way to gather people together over seasonal vegetables and fish evolved into an anticipated communal tradition.

It’s less about formality and more about joy: fresh ingredients, generous company, and the kind of meal, that, with the right wine and a baguette for each person, can last for hours without anyone noticing.

The recipe below has a few items that I did not have on hand but would certainly use next time!

Once all are gathered, the only thing left to do is pass the wine, share the stories, and watch the evening bloom around the table.

*Although the steps below appear cumbersome, they are really quite simple and all can be prepped a day ahead.

Ingredients

For the Vegetables and Seafood

-1pound baby red or mixed beets, trimmed and scrubbed

-Extra-virgin olive oil

-Freshly ground black pepper

-2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar

-14-16 new or fingerling or baby potatoes, scrubbed

-½ pound French green beans, stem end trimmed

-1pound thin asparagus

-6 eggs

-1 bunch French breakfast radish, large leaves trimmed

-2 small bulb fennel, sliced, keeping some of the fronds for garnish

-2 pounds mussels

-2 pounds large shrimp, peeled with tail on, and steamed over lemon water and set aside to cool

-1 clove garlic, slivered

-1 shallot, chopped

-3 sprigs thyme

-Pinch of red chili flakes

-½ cup white wine

Method

• On the night before you serve the grand aioli, gently season the cod with kosher salt on both sides; cover, and refrigerate overnight.

• Beets

  • Preheat oven to 400. Place beets in a small roasting pan. Coat the beets in 4 tablespoons of olive oil, and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Add the red-wine vinegar and 4 tablespoons water to the pan. Cover with foil, and roast until beets are tender, approximately 1 hour. Check beets halfway through cooking, and add more olive oil and water if the roasting pan looks dry. Remove beets from oven, and uncover the pan. Cover the beets with a clean kitchen towel, and let them stand at room temperature until cool enough to handle. Using the kitchen towel (or paper towels) to help you, rub off the outer skin of the beets. Peeling the beets while they are still quite warm makes the otherwise difficult task easy. Set aside the peeled beets until completely cool, then halve or quarter, depending on the size.

• Meanwhile, fill a large pot with water, and bring to a boil. Season aggressively with salt. In this case you want the water even saltier than the sea. It should nearly make you pucker when you taste it. Be sure to taste it!

• Lower the heat so that the water is at an energetic simmer. Add the potatoes, and cook until easily pierced with a skewer, approximately 12 minutes. Remove from the simmering water with a slotted spoon, and transfer to a sheet tray lined with a clean kitchen towel to cool

• Add the green beans and asparagus to the simmering water, and cook until tender, 2 to 3 minutes, depending on thickness. Remove using a slotted spoon, and transfer to a bowl of iced water.  Once cold, remove and add to the sheet tray with the potatoes to dry

• Turn the heat up on the pot of water, returning it to an aggressive boil. Gently lower the eggs into the boiling water using a slotted spoon, being careful not to crack their shells. Cook 10 minutes. Remove the eggs from the water, and peel them quickly under cool running tap water. Cut them in half lengthwise.

• Once the potatoes are cool, in half.

• Fill a large bowl with cold water, and drop in the radishes. Agitate the radishes to help shake loose any sand, then let it settle on the bottom of the bowl. Lift the radishes out, and set aside.. Let dry, then halve or quarter, depending on their size.

• .Mussels

  • Scrub the mussels under running water, and debeard them. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high in a pot large enough to hold the mussels in a single layer. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the garlic, shallot, thyme sprigs and chile flakes. Let the aromatics toast, but not brown, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes.

• Add the mussels, then pour in the wine. Cover the pot with a tightfitting lid, and steam 2 minutes. Check the mussels, and remove any that have opened to a platter. Continue cooking, removing each mussel as it opens so they do not overcook. Discard any that do not open after 10 minutes. Set mussels aside to cool.

For the Aioli

Grate the garlic into the bowl of a food processor using a microplane. Add the whole egg, egg yolk, lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of water and a generous pinch of kosher salt. With the processor running, slowly drizzle in the oil. The aioli will start to thicken and emulsify. If you like, at this point you can add a pinch of saffron for a more complex, earthy flavor.

• Arrange all of these beautiful ingredients on one or several platters with the aioli for dipping.

Suggested Wine Pairings

Rose

A Provençal rosé is a classic regional pairing that offers crispness and minerality to balance the richness of the aioli.

• Côtes de Provence Rosé: A light, crisp, and fruity option that is versatile and pairs well with the full array of ingredients. 

White

• Rhône Valley White Blends: Full-bodied blends of Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier have enough weight and a hint of vanilla to complement the strong garlic and oil.

• French Alsatian Pinot Gris: An old-world Pinot Gris provides complex aromas of pear and apple, along with a lush texture to balance the rich sauce.

• Sauvignon Blanc: A crisp, acidic Sauvignon Blanc, especially from New Zealand, can match the seafood and fresh vegetables with its vibrant, fruity notes.